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Damask Rose Otto: What True Rose Oil Is, Why It Costs So Much, and What It’s Doing in a Body Butter

Most “rose” skincare contains no rose. It contains rose geranium, rose fragrance, or a trace of rose absolute. True rose oil, the steam-distilled essential oil of Rosa damascena, is rare enough that it is usually measured by the drop. Sow Eden uses it in exactly one product, the Bloom Whipped Body Butter. This is what it is, why it costs what it does, who should be careful with it, and what it is honestly doing in the jar.

What is Rose Otto?

Rose otto (also called attar of roses) is produced by steam-distilling fresh Rosa damascena petals, picked by hand in the early morning. The yield is famously poor: roughly 3,000 to 4,000 kilograms of petals for one kilogram of oil, on the order of three million blossoms (Alteya Organics; Osmetheca). Most of the world’s supply comes from the Rose Valley around Kazanlak in Bulgaria and from Isparta in Turkey; the Bulgarian oil is the traditional reference (Wikipedia).

Its main constituents are citronellol (about 20 to 34 percent), geraniol (15 to 22 percent), and nerol––three terpenes or scent molecules––plus a fraction of odorless natural waxes called stearoptenes. Those waxes are why genuine rose otto turns semi-solid in a cool room and clears again in a warm hand, a quirk perfumers use as a quick authenticity check (Wikipedia).

Rose otto vs. rose absolute vs. rose geranium

Rose otto Rose absolute Rose geranium
Plant Rosa damascena petals Rosa damascena or R. centifolia petals Pelargonium graveolens leaves
Method Steam distillation Solvent extraction Steam distillation
Scent Light, green-floral, true rose Deeper, honeyed, closer to the fresh flower Rosy with a green, minty edge
Cost Highest High A fraction of either
In Sow Eden Bloom Whipped Body Butter Not used Bloom Facial Oil

 

Steam distillation loses most of the petal’s phenylethyl alcohol to the distillation water (which becomes rose water), so otto smells lighter and greener than the absolute. It is also the form traditionally preferred for skin products because no solvent is involved. If you have ever wondered why the facial oil and the body butter smell like different roses, this table is the answer: they are different plants.

What the research does and doesn’t say

Rosa damascena is one of the most studied botanicals in the Middle East and the Balkans, and reviews list a long range of laboratory and animal findings (Boskabady and colleagues; a 2017 clinical review). Two honest notes: Most of the human research involves inhaling the scent, not applying the oil to skin. And none of it changes what a body butter is: a cosmetic. We use rose otto because it is the most beautiful rose scent available and because customers have told us for years that the ritual matters to them. We do not sell it as a treatment for anything.

Who should patch-test, or choose unscented

  • Fragrance-sensitive skin. Rose otto’s main scent molecules, citronellol and geraniol, along with its minor components eugenol and farnesol, are recognized fragrance allergens on the FDA’s list and must be declared individually on EU labels above very low thresholds. “Natural” and “rare” do not mean non-allergenic.
  • Anyone told to avoid fragrance by a clinician, including during cancer treatment or with eczema-prone skin. Choose our Unscented Relax body oil instead.
  • Anyone who dislikes a strong rose. This product is generously scented. Some reviewers call it delicate; at least one found it too much. Both are telling the truth about their noses.
  • Breakout-prone faces. Bloom body butter is a body product. Its coconut-oil base is rich and rates high for pore-clogging on the face (NBC Select); some customers use it on the face happily, but if you break out, keep it below the neck and use Bloom Facial Oil, a jojoba-led formula, on the face.

Patch-test on the inner forearm for 24 to 48 hours before using it widely.

What is in the jar

Four ingredients: virgin organic shea nut butter, virgin organic coconut oil, steam-distilled Damask rose otto (Rosa damascena) essential oil, broad-spectrum CBD oil. About 150 mg of CBD per jar. The published certificate of analysis for Bloom body butter (SC Labs) shows Total THC: Not Detected, with pesticides, heavy metals, mycotoxins, residual solvents, microbiology, and foreign material all passing.

Shea and coconut do the moisturizing work, which is why the butter feels rich and holds on dry zones. The whipped texture means a little goes a long way; the jar is 1.5 oz by weight but 4 oz by volume, which is also why it is best applied to damp skin after a shower, where it spreads furthest.

How to use it

  • Apply to damp skin within a few minutes of bathing to help hold in moisture.
  • A pea-sized amount covers a forearm; warm it between your palms first.
  • Layer a face or body oil over the top on very dry zones; our Body Butter 101 guide explains the order.
  • Store it cool. Shea and coconut soften in heat, and the whipped texture will flatten if the jar sits in a hot car or bathroom.

What customers say about the scent and texture

Verified reviews, quoted as written, including one that disagrees:

“It leaves my skin feeling rose petal soft... the scent is so delicate and very like actual roses. This is my 4th time buying this body butter!” Sarah L., 5 stars
“The texture of this whipped butter is like heaven! It feels so silky and smooth going on your skin.” Corinna W., 5 stars
“The texture is amazing and it sinks in quickly with no greasiness!” Sandra, 5 stars
“I love roses, but honestly, the rose fragrance of BLOOM is just too much.” Doreen S., 4 stars

Frequently asked questions

Is rose otto the same as rose essential oil?
Yes. Rose otto, attar of roses, and rose essential oil all refer to the steam-distilled oil of rose petals. Rose absolute is a different, solvent-extracted product.

Why is rose oil so expensive?
Yield. It takes roughly 3,000 to 4,000 kilograms of hand-picked petals to produce one kilogram of oil, and the harvest window is a few weeks each spring.

Can sensitive skin use rose otto?
Its main scent compounds are recognized fragrance allergens, so patch-test first. If a clinician has told you to avoid fragrance, choose an unscented product.

Can I use Bloom body butter on my face?
It is formulated for the body. Its coconut-oil base is rich, so if you are breakout-prone, use Bloom Facial Oil on the face and keep the butter for body and hands.

Does Bloom body butter contain THC?
Our published lab report shows Total THC as "Not Detected". You can read it on our Lab Results page.

Explore the full organic, vegan CBD skincare collection, or go straight to the Bloom Whipped Body Butter.

 

Did you know? 

Lindsey, Jacob's wife and Sow Eden co-founder, loves to use the rose body butter as an underarm deoderant. CBD itself has show to have anti-bacterial properties, and the beautiful scent of Damask rose is perfect and gentle enough for under-arm use. 

 

About the author

Jacob Dunn is the CEO of Sow Eden Organics. With a background in holistic wellness and sustainable agriculture, he has guided Sow Eden’s focus on organic, vegan, broad-spectrum CBD products that are independently lab tested batch by batch, with results published on the Lab Results page.

This article is for general information and is not medical advice. Sow Eden products are cosmetics and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease. If you have been told to avoid fragrance, or have a diagnosed skin condition, talk with your clinician before adding a scented product.

 

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